Home Again remains copyright of the author swendl, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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We began our "pilgrimage" in Memphis, an old river town with a rich blues history, and were privileged to hear great performances there from the likes of Preston Shannon and Ms. Zeno. Last night, we ended our blues quest in another old river town with a rich blues history, and we once again hit paydirt, as we happened to find a performer of exceptional talent in Randy McAllister, who was playing at BB's Blues & Soups downtown, across from Busch Stadium. We had just spent the early evening milling around Laclede's Landing (nightclub/restaurant district) with thousands of other blues fans, moving from one stage to another (there were three). The talent was OK - in fact, the headliner act was John Mayall, known as the "Father of British Blues" (what do the Brits have to be blue about anyway?). However, the crowds were a bit much, and we decided to walk down to BB's to get away from the madness.
What a great decision! Randy McAllister and his band have several Grammy nominations, and you can quickly tell why. Those guys are superb performers, and McAllister himself is especially wonderful. He's a Texas lad, can play drums, harmonica, and washboard (yes, washboard) with equal ease, and does much of his own songwriting. He had the place hopping in no time! We met a couple from the St. Louis suburbs who sat by us and we quickly became friends. They really helped make the night special. Thank you guys! Hope to see you back at BB's again soon.
It was impossible to leave until the end - you wanted to see what other interesting musical creations this group could deliver. We shut them down, then walked back to our hotel around 1:30. Late? Yes. Happy? Yes.
To all of you who followed our little journey, thank you. We couldn't wait to get into our hotel each night to see if anyone had posted any comments for us. It really made our day, knowing that you were out there and participating in the trip with us. And, to our wives, we thank you for letting us fly the coop for a few days and take this memorable trip. However, get ready - we're coming home today, and will soon be underfoot again.
Love to all,
Steve & Dennie
Saint Louis remains copyright of the author swendl, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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Our four-hour drive from West Memphis to Saint Louis was uneventful. We had the top down all the way, enjoying the heat and sun, knowing that in a few short weeks Old Man Winter will be peeking around the corner. But today, even though the calendar says September, it's still summertime in our book!
Up through the Missouri Bootheel, as cotton fields gave way to corn and beans, and the land switched from board-flat to the hilly terrain of Eastern Missouri. Past Cape Girardeau, past the Ste. Genevieve wine country, toward Saint Louis and the Big Muddy Blues Festival tonight. We're now on the 5th floor of the Drury Inn - Convention Center, with a view east, down the street from Busch Stadium, where the Cardinals are playing the Reds as we speak. In fact, we're watching the game on TV as we type busily on our computers.
Go Cardinals!
Journey to Saint Louis remains copyright of the author swendl, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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We drove across the river into Memphis this evening and ran smack dab into a huge street party in and around Beale Street. They were having a music festival downtown, with a different band playing every half-block or so. Everyone was having a good time. They even had some street performers, and a number of Elvis look-alikes, one of whom agreed to pose with us.
We then headed across town to Wild Bill's, one of the best-known Memphis juke joints. Had a hell of a time finding the place, largely due to Steve ignoring the advice of his own GPS unit! Navigating around the sprawling St. Jude's Children's Hospital (on Danny Thomas Boulevard, of course), didn't help matters. But, eventually, we found it. It was in a seedy section of town but, then again, most juke joints are. We got there around 9, but were told we were too early -- party doesn't start until 11! Too late for our blood, but we did go in and order a beer apiece. They started hauling out 40-ouncers (pretty common in juke joints) so we cut the order down to just one and shared it. When you drink beer down here, it's always served with a napkin or paper towel to wrap around it. A cheap cozy!
Back at the hotel we tried to use the pool again - it was a wonderful pool we had enjoyed shortly after our arrival. However, we had just gotten wet when we got kicked out, as 10 pm was closing time. The evening was so pleasant and balmy that we decided to stay outside, hauling our room chairs outside our room and watching the world go by. We put our wet swim trunks on the hood of the car to dry. 
Eventually we had to go back inside, as a crew of volunteers from Greenpeace showed up and started running around us, trying to keep us moist and coaxing us back towards the water. :-)
I'm sure our wives are mortified by this picture and will disown us forever. Our apologies ladies, but we couldn't resist posting it. Once you reach a certain age, you apparently lose all shame.
Tomorrow, Saint Louis!
Memphis (Revisited) remains copyright of the author swendl, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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Sunny and hot today, but the drivin' back to Memphis was fine. Top down, sun tan lotion liberally applied, WROX-AM radio (Clarksdale - "we play only the Blues") on full blast. It was great. We took a side trip off the main highway to Shelby, MS. A couple of juke joints there. Only one was open - the Player's Lounge. There were two fellows skinning catfish outside, getting ready for tonight's feed. They gave us a little demonstration of their art (of course we tipped them well), and had a couple of beers inside this classic original juke joint. Paintings of blues artist's on the wall, and a blues-filled jukebox. Had the place all to ourselves. It was a great detour.
We stopped at Clarksdale, at the Ground Zero Blues Club again, to satisfy Dennie's craving for fried green tomatoes and okra. Met up with Puddin' again - in fact, we bought him an order of tomatoes and he sat with us as we ate and drank. We watched him show his tricks to various people as they walked in - all equally amazed at his wizardry. It was a lot of fun. Our waitress was Christie, a nice young gal. We took her picture, even though she doesn't think of herself as photogenic. Emailed it back to her once we reached West Memphis.
Steve forgot his hat in Ground Zero. As he went to retrieve it, he saw Puddin' hustling down the street with it, apparently considering it a souvenir! Steve flagged him down and retrieved it.
We got several honks from people along the way, apparently enjoying the sight of two middle-aged guys with wide-brimmed hats in a gold convertible, truckin' down the highway. We waved wildly back. Everyone's friendly down heah'.
Checked into the Hampton Inn in West Memphis, AR. Very hot. Wild Bill's tonight. He died recently, but his family plans to keep it going.
Journey Back to Memphis remains copyright of the author swendl, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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Every trip has a "down" day, and, for us, that day was Greenville. We had a fun sightseeing trip down to Louisiana yesterday before returning to Greenville to settle in.
The problems started quickly - we had trouble with our internet connection, which the hotel couldn't fix. We obviously were able to get the blog entries uploaded at least. The hotel room was adequate, but the tap water was brownish, the air and floors had a clammy feel, and the breakfast the next day was pretty meager. Hey, their pool was nice, and we had a great swim last night.
After that we drove down famed Nelson Street, which, in its glory days, used to be filled with the sound of live music coming from every neighborhood juke joint. Now, however, it's mostly empty buildings, left to rot. Depressing. There was, however, a good eating place down there that came highly recommended - Does Eat Place. It was amazing - they had a security guard out front who helped park you and then watched your car for you while you ate (of course, he would like a couple of bucks for doing so). Doe's was nothing fancy whatsoever. Four walls, some grills, and tables scattered right next to the food prep areas. You walk from outside directly into the kitchen! The waitress told us to reach into the cooler and grab whatever beer we wanted! It's obviously a popular spot because the food was plentiful and great (and a tad expensive). No menus, just a few items to choose from. Dennie had a HUGE steak, I had the shrimp. Both of us got a mound of homemade french fries, deep-fat fried. Probably not the healthiest meal, but the atmosphere was great and we enjoyed it. And the car was in one piece when we came out! I even found a little friend outside who needed some attention.
The streets down here by the levee are nearly deserted after dark - you could shoot a cannon down the long, empty streets and not hit anything or anybody. Greenville appears to have some "issues". We found the Blues Club we were looking for, but only stayed a short while. The band was out of tune a bit, and it just didn't "feel" right down there. Besides, we were a bit tired. Ain't as young as we used to be, I guess!
Greenville remains copyright of the author swendl, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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Hi all. We understand you can't see some of the videos. It's a problem with the Fliqz hosting site - it should be resolved soon (we hope) so keep checkin' back. If they don't reappear, we'll see if we can figure out a Plan B.
We're safe and sound in Greenville. We actually cruised through Greenville and headed south, travelling all the way to Lake Providence, Louisiana, our furthest point south. After that, everything is northward bound, towards home.
Had some EXTREMELY hot wings at a nice little place along the lake, on a deck overlooking Lake Providence, which is kind of a part of the Mississippi River. Had a couple of cold ones to wash it down. We couldn't finish them all - those Cajuns know hot sauce! Wow!
At any rate, we back-tracked to Greenville, and are now at the Comfort Inn downtown. We had a nice swim in the pool and are gearing up for tonight's entertainment, which is within walking distance. The Mississippi All-Stars are performing at the Walnut Street Blues Club. It will be tough to beat the Po' Monkey experience, but we'll try!
Journey to Greenville remains copyright of the author swendl, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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There are certain moments in life when it hits you suddenly, like a ton of bricks -- what's happening to me now is unique, and will probably never happen again. That's the way we felt yesterday in rural Merigold, Mississippi, near Cleveland, thanks to Mr. Willie Seaberry, world-famous proprietor of Po' Monkey's Lounge. World famous? You bet - check out this article (CLICK HERE) in the New York Times about Seaberry and his little establishment.
We drove to Po' Monkey's later in the afternoon, just to see if we could find it while it was still daylight. It was deserted - at the end of a long, lonely stretch of gravel road, well off the main highway. A flimsy sharecropper's shack, literally on the edge of a vast cotton field. Out in the middle of nowhere! We got out of the car and took pictures, and that's when it happened! Later, Dennie confided to me that he had sold his soul at the Crossroads in Clarksdale, and now, magically, could play the harmonica like Big George Brock himself! Don't believe it? Check out the evidence...
After Dennie's amazing performance, who should arrive but Willie Seaberry himself, just home from his day job driving tractor. Talk about a friendly, warm welcome! Even though he technically wasn't open for business, he welcomed us in anyway, sold us a couple of inexpensive cans of beer (he pointed Dennie to the fridge and let him serve himself! Talk about trusting!). Willie acted like we were long-lost friends. He is clearly having fun with his newfound fame, and has the picture albums to prove it, which he proudly showed us, page by page. Of course, t-shirts were for sale, and we each bought one, wearing them to the club when we returned later that evening. The shirts were in a box on his bed (his living quarters are just off the dance floor), and he told us to sort through the pile and find our size.
Of course, toy monkeys hanging everywhere. The decor was "Early Visqueen" - very low-scale, nothing fancy anywhere. Had to duck your head at times to get from one little room to the next. An absolutely one-of-a-kind place.
We came back around 8:30, when the DJ started to play, and by the time we left, after midnight, the place was pretty much packed. We were among just a handful of white folks present - most were hardworking blacks, letting their hair down after a hard day's work, enjoying each others company. The music was great, and the dance floor was busy. Dennie and I played several games of pool on the shakey, worn-out table - the floor of the club was so flimsy that the balls on the table would shake in time with the music and dancer's feet. Didn't hurt Dennie's game any - he cleaned my clock three games, and even beat a local before finally giving it up.
Seaberry treated us like honored guests. He kept bringing folks up to us to introduce us, even a fellow shooting a documentary film out of Memphis. A gal who looked 40 was actually celebrating her 66th birthday, and platefuls of food were brought out for Dennie and I so we could help them celebrate. Willie gave us a couple of beers on the house. The reception was nothing short of amazing. It was one of the most interesting and unique experiences either Dennie or I have ever had. Willie Seaberry sells beer, but he gives away happiness, and we left happy.
Cleveland remains copyright of the author swendl, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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It was a short trip to Cleveland, only about 50 miles. We took the scenic route, meandering through small towns on 2-lane blacktop. Unfortunately, we had rain this morning, as you can see from the video. We still managed to see some interesting things, including the Shackup Inn outside Clarksdale. These enterprising folks turn old sharecropper shacks into a little hotel. You can rent a shack for the night for reasonable rates. They have all the amenities, but we don't think we could convince our wives to stay there. It might be a bit too "rustic" for them! They let us look through one of the shacks and walk around, and there were lots of neat things to see, including an old gas pump frozen at 49 cents a gallon! By the way, how much are you paying for gas up there? It's about 2.50 / gallon down here - definitely cheaper.
At any rate, we are safe and sound at the Comfort Inn in Cleveland, home of Delta State University. Po' Monkey's tonight - it might be the most authentic juke joint we find on this trip. Wish us luck!
Journey to Cleveland remains copyright of the author swendl, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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The road sign says it all - Clarksdale is considered birthplace of the blues - it was literally where many famous bluesmen were born and raised. The unique road sign above is at the crossroads of Highways 61 & 49, where legend says Robert Johnson sold his soul to the devil to be able to play as wonderfully as he did.
Clarksdale seems like a classic sleepy southern small town, much like you'd find in Iowa. The people are very friendly, but a little hard to understand to our Northern ears!
The main attraction here these days is the Ground Zero Blues Club, co-owned by actor Morgan Freeman, who's home is nearby in Charleston. Too bad he wasn't in town yesterday - they say he will probably show up next week. When he's in town he likes to eat at his upscale restaurant downtown (Madidi's) and then head over to the club down the street. Ground Zero, named because of Clarksdale's role as the hub of the blues, was designed to replicate the look of the old fashioned juke joint. Run-down, ripped furniture sitting out front, plywood floors. Nothing fancy anywhere, but the place oozed atmosphere.
Outside, before walking in, we made the acquaintance of "Puddin'", a slender, 77-year old black fellow who good-naturely hustled us out of a few bucks by showing us some amazing card tricks and some dice that seemed to change magically in the blink of an eye! You knew you were being hustled, but you didn't care - it was entertaining as hell. Then, when it was over, he took us inside and showed us where "his" table was (obviously he's a regular) and showed us different photographs on the wall where he appeared, obviously very proud of his status at Ground Zero ("I work for Mr. Freeman") he said.
We ended up eating our supper there as well - Dennie had a monster ribeye, cooked on the grill outside, that was melt-in-your-mouth tender, complete with a huge baked potato, etc. I had a pulled pork barbecue sandwich and fries, which was excellent. We even got a chance to check out a couple of other southern "delicacies" today - deep fried okra, and fried green tomatoes. Both very good!
Bill "Howl-N-Madd" Perry and his fellow musicians form the house band that played last night. They were very good also. However, last night's late bedtime caught up to us, and we started yawning around 11:30 and decided to call it a night. Had to stop at Burger King for Dennie - the steak and potato had already worn off and he needed a little more fuel before bedtime.
Here are pictures of today. CLICK HERE TO VIEW. Click the slideshow button once you get to the photo site, sit back, and enjoy the show.
By the way, Dennie brought along his harmonica and has been practicing. He's getting pretty damned good!
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There are several crops growing that we have no idea what they are. Haven't seen a cow, horse, or pig in hundreds of miles! Flat and dry, roads straight as an arrow, heat shimmering up off the road. Just like you'd imagine it would be.
Hotel room in Clarksdale is the Best Western Executive Inn. Very nice room.
We'll be going out exploring soon. It's about 3:45 pm. Morgan Freeman's juke joint is about a mile or two from here. He lives down here -- maybe we'll see him!
Bye for now.
Journey to Clarksdale remains copyright of the author swendl, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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After getting checked in we got into the beer (just a tad) and hit the rooftop pool with great views of the river and Downtown Memphis. Man did that pool feel good - the heat down here is so thick you can cut it with a knife. Strolled toward Autozone Park, home of the AAA Memphis Redbirds and had a sandwich along the way at Huey's which was highly recommended by the locals (OK, by one guy standing in the street). The food was good, the beer cold, and the park nearby. Got there just in time for the first pitch, with great seats behind home plate. Saw a home run! Denny and I left in the 7th with the home team leading the Iowa Cubs, 2-0. We figured they didn't need us anymore. Turns out they did (they lost 5-2). Man.
Beale Street was an easy walk away. Live music poured from every open door, and all the neon lights hurt your eyes! Tuesday Night, so it wasn't pack, and we got around great. Hit three clubs: BB Kings, Juke Joint, and the best of all, Rum Boogie's. The band, led by a buxom female with a booming voice, was terrific. Dennie got autographed CDs at two of the clubs. Had to ask directions on walking back to the hotel, but we found it OK and got a good nights sleep. Great first day!
Memphis - The Nightlife remains copyright of the author swendl, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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MEMPHIS remains copyright of the author swendl, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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Here's a shot of Dennie and his beautiful gold convertible. Keep an eye on his wide-brimmed hat -- it will probably turn up often on the upcoming trip.
After doing a trial run to make sure our luggage would fit in the trunk, we retired to Dennie's basement for a couple of cold ones.
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After that, Dennie entertained with a little guitar and a little harmonica action. Ain't he talented?
Tuesday is just around the corner......stay tuned!
Preparation... remains copyright of the author swendl, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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My God, he's serious! remains copyright of the author swendl, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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