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Sunny and hot today, but the drivin' back to Memphis was fine. Top down, sun tan lotion liberally applied, WROX-AM radio (Clarksdale - "we play only the Blues") on full blast. It was great. We took a side trip off the main highway to Shelby, MS. A couple of juke joints there. Only one was open - the Player's Lounge. There were two fellows skinning catfish outside, getting ready for tonight's feed. They gave us a little demonstration of their art (of course we tipped them well), and had a couple of beers inside this classic original juke joint. Paintings of blues artist's on the wall, and a blues-filled jukebox. Had the place all to ourselves. It was a great detour.

We stopped at Clarksdale, at the Ground Zero Blues Club again, to satisfy Dennie's craving for fried green tomatoes and okra. Met up with Puddin' again - in fact, we bought him an order of tomatoes and he sat with us as we ate and drank. We watched him show his tricks to various people as they walked in - all equally amazed at his wizardry. It was a lot of fun. Our waitress was Christie, a nice young gal. We took her picture, even though she doesn't think of herself as photogenic. Emailed it back to her once we reached West Memphis.

Steve forgot his hat in Ground Zero. As he went to retrieve it, he saw Puddin' hustling down the street with it, apparently considering it a souvenir! Steve flagged him down and retrieved it.

We got several honks from people along the way, apparently enjoying the sight of two middle-aged guys with wide-brimmed hats in a gold convertible, truckin' down the highway. We waved wildly back. Everyone's friendly down heah'.

Checked into the Hampton Inn in West Memphis, AR. Very hot. Wild Bill's tonight. He died recently, but his family plans to keep it going.

There are certain moments in life when it hits you suddenly, like a ton of bricks -- what's happening to me now is unique, and will probably never happen again. That's the way we felt yesterday in rural Merigold, Mississippi, near Cleveland, thanks to Mr. Willie Seaberry, world-famous proprietor of Po' Monkey's Lounge. World famous? You bet - check out this article (CLICK HERE) in the New York Times about Seaberry and his little establishment.

We drove to Po' Monkey's later in the afternoon, just to see if we could find it while it was still daylight. It was deserted - at the end of a long, lonely stretch of gravel road, well off the main highway. A flimsy sharecropper's shack, literally on the edge of a vast cotton field. Out in the middle of nowhere! We got out of the car and took pictures, and that's when it happened! Later, Dennie confided to me that he had sold his soul at the Crossroads in Clarksdale, and now, magically, could play the harmonica like Big George Brock himself! Don't believe it? Check out the evidence...

After Dennie's amazing performance, who should arrive but Willie Seaberry himself, just home from his day job driving tractor. Talk about a friendly, warm welcome! Even though he technically wasn't open for business, he welcomed us in anyway, sold us a couple of inexpensive cans of beer (he pointed Dennie to the fridge and let him serve himself! Talk about trusting!). Willie acted like we were long-lost friends. He is clearly having fun with his newfound fame, and has the picture albums to prove it, which he proudly showed us, page by page. Of course, t-shirts were for sale, and we each bought one, wearing them to the club when we returned later that evening. The shirts were in a box on his bed (his living quarters are just off the dance floor), and he told us to sort through the pile and find our size.

Of course, toy monkeys hanging everywhere. The decor was "Early Visqueen" - very low-scale, nothing fancy anywhere. Had to duck your head at times to get from one little room to the next. An absolutely one-of-a-kind place.

CLICK HERE to see photos.

We came back around 8:30, when the DJ started to play, and by the time we left, after midnight, the place was pretty much packed. We were among just a handful of white folks present - most were hardworking blacks, letting their hair down after a hard day's work, enjoying each others company. The music was great, and the dance floor was busy. Dennie and I played several games of pool on the shakey, worn-out table - the floor of the club was so flimsy that the balls on the table would shake in time with the music and dancer's feet. Didn't hurt Dennie's game any - he cleaned my clock three games, and even beat a local before finally giving it up.

Seaberry treated us like honored guests. He kept bringing folks up to us to introduce us, even a fellow shooting a documentary film out of Memphis. A gal who looked 40 was actually celebrating her 66th birthday, and platefuls of food were brought out for Dennie and I so we could help them celebrate. Willie gave us a couple of beers on the house. The reception was nothing short of amazing. It was one of the most interesting and unique experiences either Dennie or I have ever had. Willie Seaberry sells beer, but he gives away happiness, and we left happy.

Let's try to show you a map of today's short trip (about 70 miles), from Memphis to Clarksdale, Mississippi. CLICK HERE to see a map.

There are a LOT of cotton fields down here - in fact, we started running into them in the Missouri bootheel, which surprised us. Here's a pic of the stuff growing in the fields.

There are several crops growing that we have no idea what they are. Haven't seen a cow, horse, or pig in hundreds of miles! Flat and dry, roads straight as an arrow, heat shimmering up off the road. Just like you'd imagine it would be.

Hotel room in Clarksdale is the Best Western Executive Inn. Very nice room.

We'll be going out exploring soon. It's about 3:45 pm. Morgan Freeman's juke joint is about a mile or two from here. He lives down here -- maybe we'll see him!

Bye for now.

Well, we've solved some of our technical problems. Here's a few videos from our first night. We also have a bunch of still photos which you can see at this site. CLICK HERE.

After getting checked in we got into the beer (just a tad) and hit the rooftop pool with great views of the river and Downtown Memphis. Man did that pool feel good - the heat down here is so thick you can cut it with a knife. Strolled toward Autozone Park, home of the AAA Memphis Redbirds and had a sandwich along the way at Huey's which was highly recommended by the locals (OK, by one guy standing in the street). The food was good, the beer cold, and the park nearby. Got there just in time for the first pitch, with great seats behind home plate. Saw a home run! Denny and I left in the 7th with the home team leading the Iowa Cubs, 2-0. We figured they didn't need us anymore. Turns out they did (they lost 5-2). Man.

Beale Street was an easy walk away. Live music poured from every open door, and all the neon lights hurt your eyes! Tuesday Night, so it wasn't pack, and we got around great. Hit three clubs: BB Kings, Juke Joint, and the best of all, Rum Boogie's. The band, led by a buxom female with a booming voice, was terrific. Dennie got autographed CDs at two of the clubs. Had to ask directions on walking back to the hotel, but we found it OK and got a good nights sleep. Great first day!

Arrived safely. Man is it hot! Had the top down on the convertible for most of the way, but then we wimped out, put the top up, and cranked up the AC! Checked into the Comfort Inn in downtown Memphis, a stone's throw from the Mississippi River. We have a great room. Gotta go - swimming pools, bars, and baseball games await!